http://cgi.ebay.com/Ira-Ryan-Randonneur-Rivendell-Herse-Singer-honjo-brevet_W0QQitemZ280221622088QQihZ018QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.

Don’t get me wrong, I agree that a rider should do everything possible to prepare, inclding mental prep. There is always the risk of over thinking it, and that’s where the “just get to the next control” strategy really pays off.

This may come along in a later stage of your psychology of the long ride but I find my big failures to be as motivational as my big successes. Those ‘negative’ lessons are burned into my brain, just as indelibly as the shining moments of success. (I may not be sure what I should do, but I know not to do that!)

On evey 1200 I have ever ridden I have encountered some point at which I doubted I was going to finish within the time lime. But each time that occured I committed to ride on at least until I missed a control time and then decide what to do. So far (knock wood) this strategy has always delivered me to the finish in under 90 hours.

William Faulkner said “Success seems to be largely a matter of hanging on after others have let go”.

DrC says, “Stubborn people succeed because they are too stupid to quite when others know they are bound for failure.”

Beautiful job. I recently came into possesion of a metallic-coffee-colored Raleigh Super Course that I believe is early 70s. I had the tires replaced and was unable to find a replacement for the small sprockets on the derailer. Can you recommend anyone in Chicago?

I also had a spill too, which will mean some repairs to the crank…

I’m not wise in the ways of the restorer (or bikes for that matter), but this is the most beautiful bike I have ever seen and I want to make it right.

Two more items of interest: 1. I purchased it for $60. 2. Under the frame, directly under the part that houses the crank mechanism, is the number 11… what could this mean?

Thanks,
Tony
__________
Thanks, Tony.

Your best bet is to get on eBay and look for your replacement parts. The good news about 1970s era Raleighs is the spare parts are in good supply and relatively cheap when compared to other collectors’ bicycles. For a good resource on restoration I point you to a good book, How to restore your collector bicycle, by William Love. Of course, the late Sheldon Brown was (and remains through his web site) a fountain of information about compatibility between parts, frames, and era. Sorry, I am not sure what the number means.

Best,

dr

The main reason I went with the Go-one3 instead of the Aerorider was that it was just much easier and faster to get the Go-one3. In addition, the Go-one3 looked much easier to add a custom power-assist setup to handle the really steep hills I face in northwestern CT. I was a little worried that the Aerorider motor (600W when I was looking to order one…) might not be up to the task. I also didn’t like that I’d have to pedal against the motor when just pedaling without motor power. (Aerorider)

I’m using a 48V powerpack motor with a Currie USPD drive running a 15.2:1 gear reduction to the back wheel. For power I’m using a 48V 13ah nimh battery. There isn’t a hill I can’t easily climb!

To get around bad visibility in the rain, I’m told by other Go-one3 owners that wax on the windshield does wonders. I just got my Go-one3 working the way I want recently and have not ridden in the rain yet…

The Go-one3 is definitely more open in the rear than the Aerorider, but that’s okay as I never intended to drive either in harsh winter conditions. I’m hoping that we’ll get some breaks where the roads will be dry enough for a spin now and then this winter.

Charlie